Leo wondered why cabbage might be called hot and cold, so Grandma explained that “cole” means cabbage, not its temperature. This is a cold weather dish, good with roast pork or the leftovers of turkey.

Serves 4
½ small white cabbage (about 1 pound/450g)
For the dressing
2 egg yolks
¼ cup/60 ml water
¼ cup/60 ml cider vinegar, more to taste
1 tablespoon butter, diced
1/2 teaspoon salt, more to taste

1. Cut the cabbage into quarters, then cut out and discard the stems. Set the cabbage, flat side down, on the chopping board and slice it very thinly across the remaining stems; discarding any remaining thick bits of stem. Transfer the cabbage to a sauté pan or other wide, shallow pan.

2. For the dressing: Whisk the egg yolks, water, vinegar, butter and salt in a small saucepan until mixed. Bring a water bath to a simmer on top of the stove, then set the saucepan in it and heat gently, whisking constantly, until the butter melts and the sauce thickens slightly, 2-3 minutes.

3. Pour the sauce over the cabbage and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the cabbage wilts slightly and all the liquid has evaporated, 7-10 minutes depending on the cabbage. Taste, adding more vinegar or salt if you wish. Serve warm. Hot cole slaw reheats well.