DAUBE D’AGNEAU PROVENҪALE (LAMB STEW WITH OLIVES AND TOMATO) In Provence where this dish originated, local potteries sell pot-bellied casseroles with tiny round lids just large enough to insert your hand. Sizes vary depending to family numbers, there are ten of us when we gather in the Roussillon and the stout brown pot lives on
TREACLE TART This recipe comes from Grandma’s grandmother and brightened what always seemed to Grandma long, chilly visits when the grownups spent too much time talking among themselves. The great treat was treacle tart filled with lemon-flavored golden syrup and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, a rarity in those far off days
RHUBARB AND GINGER JAM Rhubarb came originally from chilly central Asia, and most northern European vegetable gardens, however small, have a clump of these cheerful pink stems crammed into a corner. Rhubarb is the first fruit to be ready in the spring (though technically it is classed as a vegetable). To be edible rhubarb needs
HOT BACON SALAD The best way to deal with chewy salad greens is to wilt them slightly with a dressing of hot bacon and vinegar. Smoked bacon, cut in a meaty dice that the French call lardons, is perfect for this salad, which serves for as a first course or light lunch. Serves 4 A
BANANA AND ORANGE CAKE Ripe, slightly squishy bananas are best for this splendid golden cake which needs no decoration. We were introduced to it by our friend Aurora from Bolivia. Makes a 10-inch/25-cm cake to serve 8 ½ cup/125 g melted butter, more for the pan 3 cups/375 g flour, more for the pan 1
REGENT’S PUNCH This mildly alcoholic punch must have been named for the English Prince Regent, who employed the legendary chef Antonin Carȇme at his fantasy Pavilion in the beachside resort of Brighton. The mix starts deceptively mild, with tea and “a little” Champagne, but calls for a kicker of “old spirits” (perhaps schnapps or gin)
FIGGY BLACK JAM When Grandma’s son Simon took over his farmhouse in southern France he inherited a splendid black fig tree in the back courtyard, which was always laden with sweet, juicy figs in the late summer. To play up the drama of their dark skins, Grandma would combine them with black currants or blackberries
MOULES MARINIÈRE Our family once had a summer house near Dieppe, on the Normandy coast, and ever since Grandma has loved mussels. Saffron is a natural partner for fish – it colors this fragrant stew a glowing orange-gold. You can try substituting clams for the mussels, but allow more time for them to open over
RUSSIAN BORTSCH Katya makes the best Bortsch and no wonder since she was brought up in Russia. The soup is crammed with vegetables, enough to make it a vegetarian main course, though Katya tells me that traditionally it is always followed by a main course of meat or chicken with a grain such as kasha
BUBBLE AND SQUEAK Grandma still cannot approach the town of Cheltenham without a shudder. This is where she was at boarding school for six unhappy years. Given her love of cooking, it might have been the execrable food that did her in, but there was much more to it than that. Calvinist principles of self-denial