STIR-FRIED RICE NOODLES WITH SHRIMP

I was introduced to the wok after many years of using only French kitchen equipment and become an instant fan. The wide rounded surface makes it easy to cook a sizeable quantity of food, while the wok stirrer – its edge curved to match the pan – doubles as a scoop. Due to the almost instantaneous transfer of heat through the thin metal of the wok, quickly cooked ingredients are essential such as peeled cooked shrimp and prepared chili. Best of all is Chinese red chili paste, but fried red pepper flakes will do – allow about ½ teaspoon, they cook in about a minute, the same time it takes to heat the shrimp. If rice noodles are not available, substitute fresh angel-hair pasta.

Serves 4
¼ pound thin rice noodles
2 garlic cloves
A walnut-sized piece of fresh ginger
5-7 scallions
3 tablespoons soy sauce, or more to taste
1 teaspoon Chinese red chili paste, or more to taste.
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ pound small peeled cooked shrimp
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil, or more to taste.

1. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil with the lid on – allow 5-10 minutes for this before you start the recipe.

2. To peel the garlic cloves, crush them slightly with the flat of the knife to loosen the skin: discard the skin. I don’t bother to peel the ginger but simply cut it into chunks. Trim the roots and tough green ends of the scallions and cut the green parts into 3/8-inch slices – a diagonal cut is more attractive.

3. Put the white parts of the scallions in the food processor with the garlic and ginger. Pulse for 15-30 seconds, until everything is chopped. Stir together the soy sauce and chili paste in a small bowl. The water should be boiling by this time. Add the noodles, stir, and simmer until they are tender but still chewy, 1-2 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, begin the stir-frying: pour the vegetable oil around the sides of the wok and heat for about 10 seconds, just until it starts to smoke. Immediately add the garlic, ginger, and scallion mixture with the shrimp and stir-fry, using a wok stirrer, for 45 seconds to 1 minute, until fragrant. Take the wok from the heat until the noodles are cooked. Drain them, add them to the wok and return it to the heat. Toss and stir with the stirrer and a spoon until the shrimp and noodles are very hot, 1-2 minutes. To make best use of the heated surface when stir-frying, spread the ingredients up the side of the pan as you stir rather than letting them collect in the bottom.

5. Lastly, add the soy sauce and chili paste and stir-fry for 20-30 seconds to blend flavors. Add the sliced scallion tops and sprinkle with the sesame oil. Stir and taste, adding more soy, chili paste, and sesame oil if you wish. Serve at once, while very hot and fragrant – the essence of Asia!