Glazed Ham with Apples

Country ham needs fruit to balance the salt, and for me apples are just right. A delicious syrupy caramel gravy brings it all together.

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Veal Chops with Mustard (Côtes de Veau Dijonnaise)

The savvy mustard-makers of Dijon have done such a good marketing job that today the town is synonymous with the classic aromatic French mustard flavored with wine and herbs. In this recipe you can take your pick of smooth or grainy mustard, with or without herbal or fruity flavorings. Veal chops, particularly with this creamy sauce, suggest to me a similarly luxurious vegetable, fresh asparagus perhaps, or fine green beans.

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Pot Roast Pork Loin with Carrots and Parsnips (Enchaud Périgourdin)

Having read about Enchaud Périgourdin in an old cookbook, I was so happy to actually taste it when I was in Périgord. Once I’d tried it, I never looked back—it’s so simple. The pork is spiked with sticks of garlic, and roasted en cocotte with just a bit of broth in a covered casserole, so the meat keeps moist and tasty. Carrots and parsnips are added halfway through cooking so they cook to just the right tenderness as accompaniment. The pork is also excellent cold: thin slices, spread with the jelled cooking juices and topped with some cornichons, makes a robust sandwich between slices of country bread.

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Calf’s Liver with Onions (Foie de Veau Lyonnaise)

Lyon and the surrounding Lyonnais district have competed for centuries with Paris to be first in food. Paris is chic, sophisticated, refined; Lyon goes for hearty, accessible country cooking that is easy to love. This recipe sums it up.

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Fergus Henderson’s Slow Roast Pig’s Head

For roasting, a pig’s head should be halved down the middle and thoroughly cleaned. That’s how they come when ordered off the internet from suppliers such as Heritage Foods USA (http://heritagefoodsusa.com). In large cities you will find pig’s head in ethnic butcher shops, particularly in Chinatown. The roasted head yields quantities of crunchy skin, and generous amounts of rich meat from the cheek. Fergus suggests serving the roasted head at room temperature on a bed of tart seasonal greens such as watercress or arugula. On a chilly day it is also delicious hot with braised fava or kidney beans.

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Roast Rabbit with Mustard (Lapin Rôti à la Moutarde)

Everywhere in France, Dijon mustard, hot or mild, with or without seeds, is used as a quick seasoning sauce when grilling or roasting. In this Provençal recipe, the mustard is bolstered with chopped herbs and plenty of garlic. Roasted tomatoes are the natural accompaniment. Serves 4

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