Bitter Orange Marmalade

Every January I look forward to my annual marmalade making. The dark days of winter lighten up and my home fills with the delicious aroma of simmering citrus peel. Los Angeles is known for its backyard citrus with neighborhood orange trees dating back to the early 1920s. Some of these oranges are simply too bitter

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Roast Leg of Lamb with White Beans

Roast leg of Lamb with White Beans Roast leg of lamb is the French cook’s pride, paraded for guests, or a birthday, or for family Sunday lunch. To make the most of this expensive cut, a gigot is invariably cooked on the bone, with a clove of garlic tucked into the shank so it permeates

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Treacle Tart

Treacle, otherwise known as golden syrup, looks like thick, golden honey and is formed during the refining of sugar.  Be sure to get the genuine golden syrup, not the squeezable version which is thinner and has less taste.  Grandma’s pastry was made with lard, but shortening or more butter can be substituted in the recipe.

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Leeks in a Bread Crust

As the name suggests, flamiche is Flemish, a reminder that in the 14th century, the Dukes of Burgundy ruled as far as Flanders and the North Sea. Flamiche is a robust version of quiche made with bread dough instead of pastry and it needs a pungent filling. Personally, I like to work with generous amounts

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Winter Salad of Country Ham

Endive and lamb’s lettuce are among the treats of winter, a glimpse of green among the seasonal roots on the vegetable stand. Teamed with beets for color and hazelnuts for crunch, they are a classic French combination, delicious with thinly sliced Virginia or Smithfield ham, or some imported prosciutto.

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Ypocras (Spiced Red Wine)

The spiced wine called Ypocras was used in cooking, or drunk on its own as a favorite remedy for illnesses caused by cold humors. The name harks back to the great Greek physician Hippocrates. This recipe for spiced red wine comes from Taillevent, who instructs that the wine be strained several times to ensure it

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Mocha Chocolate Mousse

It was a wise old chef who taught me this recipe, which gives maximum results for minimum effort. You can vary the coffee flavor here by substituting a different alcohol, such as rum or cognac.

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Winter Gratin Dauphinois

Gratin dauphinois, the chic sister of scalloped potatoes, must be the ultimate comfort food in winter. This superlative version was passed on to me by Chef Fernand Chambrette, a brilliant, cantankerous man whose cooking on a good day was legendary (don’t mention the bad days). The chef simmers the potatoes in milk to remove their

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Volcanic Apples

These apples are hollowed to the shape of a volcano so they take more stuffing, hence their name in our family. For the filling, I’m calling for muesli as it is so easy to find, but you’ll save a bit of time if you use granola, which is already toasted.  Simply mix it with the

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