CHICKEN WINGS WITH TOMATOES IN CREAM The Middle Eastern trick of a quick coating of yogurt works wonders as a marinade for chicken. Not only does yogurt add flavor, but it bakes to an agreeable golden brown. Giant tomatoes browned and finished with cream, make a delicious accompaniment. Serves 4 12-16 chicken wings (about 1.25
POTATO LATKES Latkes are a Jewish speciality, a meal in themselves when served with apple sauce or crème fraȋche. We happened to be testing latkes in the kitchen during strawberry season and they turned out to be oddly delicious with our rather runny strawberry jam. The main work involved for latkes is in grating the
CHOCOLATE BEGGARS Chocolate beggars are coins of dark chocolate embedded with toasted hazelnuts, almonds, and pistachios. This is a Burgundian recipe and the colors of the nuts, brown, grey and reddish beige, echo the robes of the beggar monks of the Middle Ages. Candied lemon is the most appropriate color of the peel but orange
MOCHA CHOCOLATE MOUSSE It was a wise old chef who taught me this recipe, which gives maximum results for minimum effort. You can vary the coffee flavor by substituting a different alcohol, such as rum or cognac. Serves 4 250 g/9 oz dark chocolate, chopped 4 egg whites Pinch of salt 30 g/2 tablespoons sugar
LASAGNE This recipe can easily be doubled, and I would suggest layering it in a roasting pan. Serves 6-8 675 g/1½ lb lasagne sheets 50 g/¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese For the meat sauce 4 onions, chopped 60 ml/4 tablespoons oil 900 g/2 lb minced beef 900 g/2 lb minced pork 2 tins (175 g/6
WINTER SALAD OF COUNTRY HAM WITH BEETS, ENDIVE AND LAMB’S LETTUCE Endive and lamb’s lettuce are among the treats of winter, a glimpse of green along with the seasonal roots on the vegetable stand. Teamed with beets for color and hazelnuts for crunch, they are a classic French combination, delicious with thin slices of Smithfield
VENISON AND MUSHROOM PIE WITH PORT My mother’s game pie was famous – her secret? Adding a spoonful of chopped pickled walnuts to give the sauce depth and color. A similar amount of black oil olives, chopped, will give a the right color. Serves 6 450 g/1 lb boneless venison 450 g/1 lb chuck steak
THREE CHEESE MACARONI Macaroni was the first pasta to capture the English palate in the simple form of macaroni cheese. First the dish was based on familiar Cheddar, but soon more trendy versions emerged, featuring two or three types of cheese such as this brisk blue Stilton with a creamy goat cheese. A glass of
WINTER GRATIN DAUPHINOIS Gratin dauphinois, the French sister of scalloped potatoes, must be the ultimate comfort food in winter. This superlative version was passed on to me by Chef Fernand Chambrette, a brilliant, cantankerous man whose cooking on a good day was legendary (don’t mention the bad days). The chef used to simmer the potatoes
GUINEA HEN WITH CABBAGE AND SAUSAGES My mother once tried to raise guinea hens, tiresome birds that made a lot of noise and were hard to catch as they persisted in roosting in the trees. So, when I moved to France and found guinea hens ready-prepared in the local market I was delighted. They have